How to Repair Chipped Porcelain

For several years I worked in the service department of a large Department store chain.

One of the many different things I did during that time was furniture and appliance touch-up. I’d drive out to various homes and “repair” any scratches or other damage to products made during the delivery process. Doing that, a person could learn a lot of short cuts and tricks in the area of touch-up, repair and maintenance.
I learned a little trick that proved to be quite helpful and time saving to me – and now I hope might be equally useful to you.

Once in a while the porcelain top of a major appliance (washing machine, stove, etc.) would get chipped and I’d have to repair it (this could also work on many sinks, toilets and any other items with porcelain surfaces). The goal for me was to make the repair in only one visit without having to return for sanding and painting, but I also found this repair technique was considerably more durable than paint.

What You’ll Need

• You’ll need a “ceramic” epoxy (as opposed to metal based) to fill the hole left by the chip (ceramic epoxy will dry to a hardness as close to the porcelain as I could find). You can get epoxy at most builders’ supp1y stores, hardware stores and many department stores with a hardware section. It usually comes in two parts — a filler and a catalyst. The catalyst makes the filler get hard when the two are mixed. If you can find an epoxy the color of the surface to be repaired, choose that one. If your “color” isn’t easily available at any of these places, some appliance repair shops might be able to supply you with “appliance” colored epoxy.
• You’ll need some sort of surface or tray on which to mix the epoxy. A stiff piece of cardboard will do the trick, but whatever you use, make sure it’s something you’ll never want again (I don’t suggest your wife’s best serving platter).
• Then of course you’ll have to mix the epoxy. An ice cream stick or something of that nature will do nicely. The flat “spatula like” surface may come in handy. I suggest you pick up two sticks.
• The trick involves this next item. You’ll need a sheet of heavy, unwrink1ed “cellophane.” I know that term probably dates me but it’s the best description I can think of. Thin plastic wrap won’t do. It’ll need to be thicker, heavier, yet flexible — like a cookie package – the kind made of plastic you can see through. Eat several cookies first (side benefit). Actually we’re after the very smooth, shiny surface that can be molded to the surface where the repair is to be performed without wrinkling. It just makes things a lot easier if you can see through it.

What To Do

1. Clean the hole thoroughly. Make sure it’s dry and free of loose particles.
2. Mix the epoxy as per its directions. Most of them require one part filler to one part catalyst. Be sure to mix a little more than you’ll need to fill the hole.
3. Now work the epoxy mixture into the cavity — filling it completely and giving it a semi smoothing with the flat stick (if the hole is very deep, you may want to put a layer in the bottom, let it dry, then resume with step three).
4. Cover the entire repair with the cellophane and smooth it into the epoxy. You may find it necessary to add or remove small amounts of epoxy until the shape of the repair matches the surrounding surface (this even works on corners and edges). Take the time to adjust any unwanted bumps, bubbles or valleys out of the epoxy surface (here’s where that second clean stick might come in handy as a trowel over the plastic). Then let the entire mess sit for a while.
5. After the epoxy has stiffened somewhat (not necessarily rock hard, just very stiff), slowly remove the cellophane. Sometimes it helps to slide it off to one side. If the epoxy sticks to the plastic, it’s either not stiff enough, or the plastic isn’t smooth enough.

What You Have Now

• If everything went according to plan, the repair should finish drying smooth and shiny like the surrounding area. If the colors match closely enough, you may not even be able to see the repair. As mentioned earlier, this is optimum as it’s best not to paint a surface you’ll be using, scrubbing and laying things on if you can help it.
• If the colors aren’t close enough for you, there are appliance colored “epoxy” paints available. I emphasize “epoxy” because if you do need to paint the surface, this kind of paint will probably hold up best.
• You can always practice this whole technique on hidden or unimportant surfaces until you get the hang of the cellophane trick, but even if you mess up terribly on the real thing, you can always sand and paint anyway. It’s just a lot more work and not quite as durable.

BHI

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